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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right then.

1. Pop out your dimmer dial with a small flat head screwdriver. Now undo the wire harness and undo the clips to take the 'face' off





2. you now should have something similar as below (without the LED as that is what i have done earlier, you should have the original one on a black plastick post)



3. Now you need to pull the circuit board out you will need some long nose pliers for this. It is a tight thing so will take abit of pulling to get it out. also make sure you pull the wheel out of its hole on the side.



4. Now you need to de-solder your original led and remove the black holder for it amd solder your new one in its place.





5. Once you have done that i would recomend plugging it in the car to make sure it works if it does then re-assemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now to the Switches.

1. Once you got to the back of your dash disconnect all the wiring harness's on. (dont forget the heater control cable from the drivers footwell)







2. Once making sure you have undone all connections so you can pull the dash out. Take the dash to some where with plenty of room to work around it.

3. Undo the switches by the 3 screws on the back.



4. To remove a switch from its holder you will need to squeeze both clips and push out they is 2 clips either side.



5. Now unclip the face by the small clips on either side.



6. you should now be left with this,



remove the bulbs they just twist out. Now when i did mine i tried to solder a new led direct to the contacts on the circuit board but the solder would not stick so i had to take the original bulb out of its holder. (you will need to unwind the wire at the sides of the holder) and then put your new LED in and wind the wire round again like the original.



Once this has been done (or soldered if your lucky and the solder stuck) put it back in and test to make sure it works if not swap the connections are round as LED's are Pole sensitive.

The process above is for all the other switches in the dash. With very minor differences which will be pretty obvious once you begin.

Please see Part 3 on how to do the Heater controls
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Once you have undone the 4 screws holding in your heater controls. Take them over to a bench or a flat surface to work on.



2. Pull the knobs off. Then undo the clips that are holding the front plate on. They is 3 on top and bottom. also undo the A/C - Air setting thing buttons they are held in by 2 clips underneath.





3. Once you have split them. Remove the clear light distrubter and plastic inserts on the back of the dial fascia's. Then you need to work out where each symbol is going to be so you can put a LED in the right places. If you use mine as a guide line it is pretty spot on with no hotspots. I used a hot glue gun to stick everything down.

Above is a very detailed way of how to lay out the LED's in the heater unit. Picture credit goes to Pompeyman (click picture for a full screen version)

4. Once you have done this i fed the wires through where the OEM bulbs would slot in and glued them in place so the wires would not pull anything aprt etc. When you are done soldering i would test them to make sure they all work and slot the front cover over to check for hotspots. If everything is good wire it up to the wiring at the back. I cut off one of the OEM holders which went in the back and stripped the wires down and connected it to them. (green wire with white stripe is POSITIIVE and green wire with black stripe is NEGATIVE)



Once you have done that and tested it you then just have to reassemble it.

To do the A/C - Air Setting buttons. Please see Part4
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1. once you have took out your heater controls on the bottom you will see the buttons are attached. You will first need to take the button 'faces' off first. they is 2 clips either side just prise these over and it should pop off.



2. You will then need to remove it from the heater unit itself by unclipping the 2 clips on the bottom.



3. You will then see another 4 clips you need to undo to get to the circuit board.



4. You then need to unclip the circuit board.



5. Solder your LED to the contacts on the board.



Test to make sure it works then reassemble.

To do the other button you follow the same process as above but you will need to check it works before you put it back together as i cannot remember which side is positive and negative.

Once you have solved that just put it all back together and enjoy your new lights.

NOTE: When testing to make sure they work, remember to clip the dimmer switch (the wheel that adjusts the brightness of the dash) back into the wiring harness otherwise nothing will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can do though they are pretty self explanatory. Once you have them out. (remember to disconnect the battery first to be on the safe side) So once out they is just 4 screws holding them in, undo those then the dials will just pull out, the caps just twist out and then the old bulbs will pull out and the leds will push in. Make sure they is good contact between the led and the holder as they can wiggle loose over time so best to put a dab of glue on them to hold them in place (once you know they are working) remember that the leds will only work one way round, so its best just to stick them in and put the dials back and reconnect your battery to test them if any dont work undo the battery again and turn the leds round. (remember you will need to have the dash dimmer control plugged in for the lights to work) Once you are happy that they are all working. It's then just a case of slinging it all back together.

 

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Question about step 3 of the Heater Dials...

Can't quite see in the photo, but have you got two separate sections of resistors and LEDs soldered up in series at opposite end of the dials?

I tried blowing up your photo but the perspex is white and the LEDs are clear!

:?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah the picture isnt awfully clear. They are wired up as 2 leds per 1 resistor. with the odd one having 1 led and 1 resistor.
 

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Jrp210 said:
Yeah the picture isnt awfully clear. They are wired up as 2 leds per 1 resistor. with the odd one having 1 led and 1 resistor.
Is that some kind of parallel arrangement or is it a large daisy chain in series? I'm trying to see how the circuit looks from one cable to the other.

Also I'm unsure how you've spliced the cables to wire them up? I don't recognise any of the colours of your cables in my car! :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Heres a pic of how i have done it, It could be wrong though, im no expert.

Blue boxes are resistors. I wired it up to the original bulb holder that goes in the back of the heater dials to light them up.

 

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Don't suppose you know of a decent place where I can acquire some LEDs?

That and a way to do the electric Window switches?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got mine from eBay but also get discount from LED Depot for being a member on here. Will do a window switch DIY at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did used 5mm but did find it a tight fit in some places so would recommend 3mm wide angle ones (flat top) can't see any on led depot though.
 

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Jrp210 said:
I did used 5mm but did find it a tight fit in some places so would recommend 3mm wide angle ones (flat top) can't see any on led depot though.
I've just ordered some off eBay. Thanks man. :)
 

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Loque said:
Jrp210 said:
I did used 5mm but did find it a tight fit in some places so would recommend 3mm wide angle ones (flat top) can't see any on led depot though.
I've just ordered some off eBay. Thanks man. :)
I did mine with 3mm and even with those, I found them to be a very tight fit underneath the Electric Window buttons.

I did the whole car... and then I did the whole car again. Lesson learned: Buy Wide Angle! :oops:
 

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sanding the tops off leds is also a good way to diffuse the light (convert focused to wide angle)
 

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Loque said:
Don't suppose you know of a decent place where I can acquire some LEDs?

That and a way to do the electric Window switches?
1. Access (assuming you've got the unit out of the car and taken the plastic housing off the top)

(a) Slide the plastic runner through underneath the button(s), so you can take the button(s) off. Do this carefully, as there are springs in there, and a little metal ball that sits on top of them that allows the buttons to function when they are clamped in place with the runner.​

(b)To get access to the board, you need to unsolder the two mounts at the top of the unit, so that the PCB can come away from the unit. The mounts come through the bottom of the board, and are a component of the main body of the window switch that the PCB sits on top of. A piece of metal that looks a lot like a staple inserts over the top of this through the top of the PCB, and the two are soldered to complete the connection. It is this solder that you are melting.​

2. Resistor: You should have the PCB free from the unit and in your hand now. There is a resistor on the PCB for the Window Switch. Replace this with one that came with your LEDs.

3. LED (or LEDs if you're doing the Driver's side): There should be a graphic on the PCB to show you which way up your LED goes in.

4. Recomposition:

(a) This is the fun bit - allow some time for this. You need to clean off any excess solder from the mounts in 1(a) so you can pass these mounts back through the underside of the board. You then need to push the PCB down, whilst sliding it forward underneath the clip at the opposite end of the board. Carefully, after this, finish off passing the mounts through the PCB so the board is as flat as possible. Re-add the staple shaped caps and re-solder. Note that you need to get the ruddy board flat or else the buttons won't rock all the way forward and all the way back - in other words, you won't be able to open/close the window.

(b) Put the buttons back in place. Pass the plastic runner through the buttons, guide rails.

(c). Go test it out!​
:)

I went through three (yes, I know :oops: ) of these to figure this out. If you can spare a tenner, go on eBay, buy a spare that you can practice on first...
 

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I've got working LEDS (have checked them on a battery) however when installed on the car they won't light up any ideas of why this could be? not sure if the switches have gone.
 
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