if i said that i wanted to improve the roar, the sound of my car, and wasnt really intrested in power and had a low budget what would be recommend, i really do like a nice roaring sounding car any suggestions ?
Skyline
Going one step further than the snorkus mod i.e. taking the resonator out is easy. Will take you an hour tops, if that.
Park your car on full left lock (try to avoid dry steering if you can) to give you access to the passenger's side front wheel arch. Remove the little plastic securing plugs, there should be three or four in total; two behind the front of the wheel and one or two at the top.
I usually flip my fuse box cover and use that as a tray to keep these plastic plugs in.
Pull the plastic arch liner off towards the wheel. It doesn't need to come off completely, just need to be able to see a big black box and this nut:
![Image]()
Remove the nut and put it somewhere safe like your pocket.
Next you have to open the bonnet and take out the passenger's side headlight. Three 10mm hex bolts - two are visible, one is underneath the plastic cover in front of the radiator. If you're using a drive ratchet you only need to remove the plastic plugs and one 10mm hex bolt on the right side to fit it underneath; otherwise remove the whole thing. Disconnect the power cable to the headlight and the cable for the adjustable dipped beam if you have it (squeeze and pull really hard if it gives you trouble). Pull out the headlight towards you and give it some welly and you should hear a click that sounds like you've broken something. Don't worry, it's just a pressure clip.
Put the headlight upside down in your passenger footwell.
Now you should see the top of the black box where the headlight used to be. Remove the securing nut pictured here:
![Image]()
Put it with the other nut and then unclip that wire that is attached to the box.
Next take off your battery cover if you have one. You should see a pipe next to the battery:
![Image]()
The top of that has two clips and just comes off. Take it off.
Undo the screw that secures the pipe to the battery plate and put it in the safe place with your nuts (lol). Slide it out from on top so the bracket it is underneath the battery plate.
Now go back to where the headlight used to be and try to pull the metal bracket for the resonator off from the protruding screw. Use a strong screwdriver if you wish. Once that's out, go underneath to the wheel arch again and do the same for the other side of the bracket.
The black resonator box should now be relatively lose. You want to get it out through the wheel arch so keep wiggling and twisting it until you can get most of the intake pipe from the engine bay through the hole into the wheel arch.
This is the bit where I had to jack up the passenger side, since there wasn't enough room to get it out. Once jacked up you can get it out through the bottom of the car.
You should end up with this:
![Image]()
Once it is out, un-jack the car and replace the two nuts from the resonator back on to the protruding bolts. Replace the big bolt that held the intake pipe to the battery plate. Replace the wheel arch lining (remember to get the plastic behind the bodywork of the arch before you replace the plastic plugs) and the headlight, then the plastic cover in front of the radiator. Replace the battery cover if you had one.
Make sure your engine bay is clear of tools (something I've forgotten to do a few times!) and shut the bonnet.
You're all done. All is left to do is go for a drive
P.S.
A K&N panel filter will also help. I got mine from here:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1082424012
It comes as it would from K&N themselves.
Park your car on full left lock (try to avoid dry steering if you can) to give you access to the passenger's side front wheel arch. Remove the little plastic securing plugs, there should be three or four in total; two behind the front of the wheel and one or two at the top.
I usually flip my fuse box cover and use that as a tray to keep these plastic plugs in.
Pull the plastic arch liner off towards the wheel. It doesn't need to come off completely, just need to be able to see a big black box and this nut:
Remove the nut and put it somewhere safe like your pocket.
Next you have to open the bonnet and take out the passenger's side headlight. Three 10mm hex bolts - two are visible, one is underneath the plastic cover in front of the radiator. If you're using a drive ratchet you only need to remove the plastic plugs and one 10mm hex bolt on the right side to fit it underneath; otherwise remove the whole thing. Disconnect the power cable to the headlight and the cable for the adjustable dipped beam if you have it (squeeze and pull really hard if it gives you trouble). Pull out the headlight towards you and give it some welly and you should hear a click that sounds like you've broken something. Don't worry, it's just a pressure clip.
Put the headlight upside down in your passenger footwell.
Now you should see the top of the black box where the headlight used to be. Remove the securing nut pictured here:
Put it with the other nut and then unclip that wire that is attached to the box.
Next take off your battery cover if you have one. You should see a pipe next to the battery:
The top of that has two clips and just comes off. Take it off.
Undo the screw that secures the pipe to the battery plate and put it in the safe place with your nuts (lol). Slide it out from on top so the bracket it is underneath the battery plate.
Now go back to where the headlight used to be and try to pull the metal bracket for the resonator off from the protruding screw. Use a strong screwdriver if you wish. Once that's out, go underneath to the wheel arch again and do the same for the other side of the bracket.
The black resonator box should now be relatively lose. You want to get it out through the wheel arch so keep wiggling and twisting it until you can get most of the intake pipe from the engine bay through the hole into the wheel arch.
This is the bit where I had to jack up the passenger side, since there wasn't enough room to get it out. Once jacked up you can get it out through the bottom of the car.
You should end up with this:
Once it is out, un-jack the car and replace the two nuts from the resonator back on to the protruding bolts. Replace the big bolt that held the intake pipe to the battery plate. Replace the wheel arch lining (remember to get the plastic behind the bodywork of the arch before you replace the plastic plugs) and the headlight, then the plastic cover in front of the radiator. Replace the battery cover if you had one.
Make sure your engine bay is clear of tools (something I've forgotten to do a few times!) and shut the bonnet.
You're all done. All is left to do is go for a drive
P.S.
A K&N panel filter will also help. I got mine from here:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1082424012
It comes as it would from K&N themselves.
nothing amazing or talaented about me mate, just followed a DIY on another forum (newtib i think) there was no mention of how you've done yours, all I did was remove battery, loosen/ move the fuse box out of the way, if memory serves it was then either 2 or 3 bolts a bit of jiggling and out she came
What does that top hole on the resonator box connect to? :shock:
And what is the sound difference like?
I will attempt this when the snow clears
And what is the sound difference like?
I will attempt this when the snow clears
That resonator box isn't much smaller than the airbox, can't remember seeing a hole that big when i had a gen3.smokebelch said:
You'll always be amazing in my eyessmokebelch said:
haha! But seriously that sounds like just removing the pipe that connects the airbox to the resonator. I did that first, but didn't like where it was taking the air from. This way it uses that connector pipe to draw in air from in front of the wheel and behind the bumper The hole in the top connects to a short piece of pipe that right-angles and leads to the airbox. You can ghetto the snorkus mod and just remove that piece (as smokebelch said you have to remove the battery and loosen the fusebox to get it out) to bypass the resonator, but as mentioned it then just takes air from next to the battery again.ryan11711 said:What does that top hole on the resonator box connect to? :shock:
And what is the sound difference like?
I will attempt this when the snow clears
The sound difference is noticeable. Especially if you remove your gear gaiter haha! Either way it's free, easy to do and you can always put it back at any time
Also as an added note, this is fine for an MOT. In fact, according to wikipedia, Hyundai didn't even include a resonator in the gen 3 in some countries since it was such a popular and easy mod.
ok then, you got me.....didnt do it they way I said (didn't do it that way on 2 gen 3's), just thought I'd waste a little of my time and just type a load of b*ll*x
I was simply asking if there was a hole big enough to pull that box through. From my memory, there wasn't.smokebelch said:
I must have explained wrong; my apologies. Taking that short pipe off like you did has pretty much the same effect of bypassing the resonator. Like I said, I did that at first to begin with. Leaving it like that is fine if you're happy with it and don't want to spend much time. The sound won't be dampened and you'll get a nice growl.smokebelch said:
However this longer way actually removes the entire resonator (less weight can only be a good thing), so instead of taking air directly from the bottom of the airbox next to the battery (the short mod) it takes air from behind the bumper/in front of the wheel (the long mod) because you still use that short bit of pipe that gets removed in the short mod. Theoretically the air should be colder in the bumper than that in the engine bay next to the battery. Next time I take my headlight off I'll take another pic of the intake.
Sorry for the confusion
lol, i'm not confused, I've taken the entire intake out.....theres nothing there anymore (on either of the gen 3's I did it to) no resonator, no pipework, no air filter box, no nothing
Now I'm confused .. Why have Hyundai put this stuff in to just rip it all out? Is it not needed?
Cars sold in certain counties have to make a certain amount of noise from the engine. It can't be too quiet nor too loud. It's easier for Hyundai to make one design that meets every country's regulation, hence the resonator that dampens the sound and silencers on the exhaust. Post-market though is a different story. Don't worry, you won't get arrested for having a louder car, unless of course it's extremely loud and you are causing a nuisance (as far as I know).
Gotcha, I thought all these air boxes were to stop rubbish from getting into the engine and yet there to cool it down, why remove all of it?
Ok sorry not to sound dumb (probably am) if I remove the air filter box and simply pipe it to behind my lights will the crap the car suck in not get into the engine without the filter?
A lot to think about with this as haven't done any mods on my engine yet but these sound interesting
You seem to be confusing resonators (which are there to hush induction noise) with air filters (which are there as a crapcatcher) - my apologies if this is not the case. To clarify:
The snorkus mod removes only the short length of tubing that sits on the slam panel and leads to the air filter box.
The resonator removal removes the majority of the pipework and box's that sit below the battery tray.
A K&N panel filter is a replacement reusable filter that fits in the OEM filter housing.
An induction kit removes the OEM air filter and probably the last remaining parts of the induction system - replacing it with a cone filter either in the engine bay (a SRI, Short Ram Induction) or in the wing/lower in the engine bay (CAI, or Cold Air Induction)...
The snorkus mod removes only the short length of tubing that sits on the slam panel and leads to the air filter box.
The resonator removal removes the majority of the pipework and box's that sit below the battery tray.
A K&N panel filter is a replacement reusable filter that fits in the OEM filter housing.
An induction kit removes the OEM air filter and probably the last remaining parts of the induction system - replacing it with a cone filter either in the engine bay (a SRI, Short Ram Induction) or in the wing/lower in the engine bay (CAI, or Cold Air Induction)...
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